Dali Ode: Rohmir SS14 collection LFW
POSTED BY KASKA ON SEPTEMBER 17, 2013
"The secret of my influence has always been that it remained secret." – Salvador Dali
Oh Dali, how we admire you! And we are not the only ones…There is no secret what influences Rohmir SS14 collection. Heavily embellished and surrealistic, yet very feminine, designs definitely work out our imagination. Animalistic prints and gold colour palette are very powerful and make the statement. Splendour has been accented by rich fabrics draped, raffled, plunged. All of it sauced up by punkish strong makeup and lots of glitter. One word: fierce!
Ode To Dali - ROHMIR PAYS HOMAGE FOR SS14
POSTED BY MICHAELMURPHYTV ON SEPTEMBER 17, 2013
"Rohmir creative director and fashion designer" Olga Roh has turned to the works of surrealist painter Salvador Dali for inspiration for her SS14 collection 'Ode To Dali'. Having spoken to her backstage whilst preparing for her runway show it is clear that, like Dali himself, Roh, is a multi-faceted personality, as she says, "I want to draw from all my personal experience, as an artist, a model, a singer, a psychologist and as a designer." This, it seems, is why she was drawn to Dali for inspiration, "he said that he liked crazy people, but he also said that the only difference between him and crazy people was that he wasn't crazy."
Having established itself as a design house known for understated style and luxurious ready-to-wear glamour, it may seem like an unusual source of inspiration for Rohmir when, for many, the key word for their look is accessibility.
Given that Dali was the master of surrealism, creating unpredictable works of art set in imaginary worlds and spanning many decades and themes, how then, you may wonder, has Olga Roh managed to weave this into a cohesive and wearable collection?
"Because Dali spans so may decades, from the 20′s right up to the 80′s with so many textures and colours you will see something from the 30′s right next to something more contemporary, the cuts will reflect this." Silhouette is one of the elements which have been used as the drawstring of this collection, pulling it neatly together. "Shape is the key, I want to create eternal luxury, for every day, so it must be wearable". With a source of inspiration as broad as Dali it would be difficult to use just silhouette alone as a theme and indeed others abound within the collection. We see influence of colour with bright yellows, greens and earth tones which hint at Dali's masterpiece, 'Metamorphosis of Narcissus'. There is texture in the use of lace and pom-poms as well as fringing and sequins in bright cobalt blue contrasted with stark black. Gold is a recurring theme in the collection, reminiscent of the textures of 'Das Rastel der Begierde', particularly where sequins are used."With gold and sequins we are transported into the universe of Dali', says Roh, "even my bags are like going on a modern day Dali picnic." So important is this theme that it is used as a 'golden thread' running through the collection to both open and close the show.
Throughout, the collection remains wearable with jersey knits trousers and figure flattering dresses and suits. Though this collection is an ode to Dali, it is not a slave to it. We see inspiration of idea rather than literal translation. This is not so high fashion as say the John Galliano collection for Christian Dior SS97 were the designer, just like Roh has done, recalled the cut of the 1930′s evening gown. In his collection Galliano elaborately worked his fabric with dense embroidery inspired by the paintings of Gustav Klimt and Sonia Delauney resulting in pieces that were luxuriously heavy with decadence of detail. In contrast Roh keeps many of her pieces light and sheer with details of ruffles, fringing and lace.
Though Dali himself was known for his collaboration with designers like Elsa Shiaporelli with whom he created his white dress with the lobster print, a shoe shaped hat and a pink belt with lips for a buckle, none of these elements appear directly in the clothes but there is inspiration in the hair and make-up.
[Olga Roh]: "2 of the models wear the 'Dali Eye'" a reference to Dali's 1945 painting 'The Eye', but because of the use of deep blue shadow and crystals it is more reminiscent of Dali's 'Eye of Time', a brooch encrusted with diamonds with a midnight blue watch face set in its center, designed by Dali for his then wife. Lips too were deepest red and jewel encrusted with smokey eyes.
With the use of luxurious fabrics, soft silhouettes, wearable cuts, what Rohmir have achieved is a collection that is precisely what Olga Roh desires, clothes that are accessible to all women. By merely hinting at Dali rather than recreating him and maintaining her vision to "design pieces that are like haute couture but made wearable" this 'Ode to Dali' has the feeling of an 'Ode to Women'.
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